Powered Anode Rod for Water Heater, 20-Year Warranty, Eliminates Rotten Egg/Sulfur Smell within 24 hours, Stops Corrosion and Reduces Limescale, Electrical Anode Rod Made of Titanium

I replaced the anode rod in a 50 gal AO Smith commercially rated water heater with this to help slow the corrosion in the tank. The water heater had not been maintained for 5 years and had begun to make some ominous noises indicating sediment.The rod I replaced was pretty pitted and corroded - glad I decided to replace it. The hardest part of the process was getting the rod released (used a cordless impact driver that made the process a lot easier that it would have been manually) and the new rod went in beautifully. The only thing to keep in mind is to have a 1 3/16 6 point socket available to tighten the rod into place. The 1 1/16 socket used to remove the old rod will not work.Securing the wiring was very easy, and since I had a plug point close by, getting it set up was pretty easy. My hope is that the Corro Protec rod will protect the tank itself from corrosion effectively. So, along with this and a larger ball drain plug, my annual maintenance (yes, I will now drain the tank annually to prevent sediment build up - we do have hard water) much easier.Cost much more than a regular anode rod, but should be an overall savings if it makes the tank last.

The rotten egg smell was completely gone within a day! 10/10 recommend.We just bought a home with the rotten egg smell in the warm water. A plumber quoted us near $500 for this job. I ordered this and picked up a breaker bar, a 1 1/16" deep socket, and a 30mm deep socket and my son and I had this installed in 20 minutes for ~45% of the quoted job. We came back the next day and the water was perfect.Note: The removal of the sacrificial rod will be with a 1/16" and some reviews say to grab 31mm deep socket and the box says to grab a 1 3/16" for the install of the new rod, but I got a 30mm (12pt) and it worked perfectly. To complete the job according the the directions, you'll also want a screwdriver to remove a screw from your tank lid for the black wire, and something to clamp the red wire tightly to the node on the top of the rod.Follow directions with power, water flow, draining, etc.

I don’t EVER write reviews! That being said I buy a lot of things oof of Amazon like anyone else reading this post. But I have to say that this is a must buy and honestly it worth every penny and so much more.We bought a Barn with a well that is about 100yrs old. We have treated our rotten egg smell with all of the chemicals and several hundred dollars later I was told I couldn’t get rid of it with out buying a 2k water filtration system. WRONG.After 8 hours of this thing being installed, zero egg smell (it was bad bad)! Honestly I feel as if it has improved our water quality to.If you are in the fence, pull the trigger. Install was easy!

I heard of Corro-Protect via word of mouth from my neighbor. Then I started researching it and realized my 12-year old water heater has never had its anode rod replaced. Took about a week of planning/prep and literally 30 minutes to install. A person who has everything ready to go and doesn't need to upgrade their electrical could probably do this in a single afternoon.• I had to swap out a single outlet for a double outlet that was eight feet away from the water heater to support the AC adapter. The adapter comes with 12' of cord which was more than plenty.• My local hardware store where I got the outlet upgrades had the sockets I needed so I just purchased those at the same time. Twenty seven bucks total vs. the cost of the "install kit" Corro sells. I wanted the added deep socket and impact rating as well. Definitely NOT saying the Corro kit isn't useful-- I just wanted slightly better sockets.• The AC adapter light is SUPER bright.... I'm glad the outlet is up in the I-joist (was originally installed to support the soft water unit timer) where I don't have to see that every time I'm in the basement. Very easy to check on the status of it, though.• As can be seen in the photo, after 12 years of use my Rheem 40-gal unit's anode rode was completely gone. Who knows when that actually fully dissolved. Probably a while ago.• I DID use a 1/2" pneumatic impact gun to get the old anode out. I didn't even bother trying with a breaker bar. Fortunately I didn't need to use any break-through chemicals or anything like that, and after watching/reading soooo many testimonials about how hard it is to get the old/factory anodes out I was really worried. Didn't take more than a few moments at all and it came loose.• The Corro anode I installed per instructions (along with teflon tape) and tightened back in with a 12" ratchet (NOT the impact gun) until it I couldn't get any further tightening leverage on it with the ratchet. Been five days so far and zero leaks.Overall it seems like a great item, and I hope it gets me another 12 years out of this water heater.

Just finished installing, will update after a week or so of use.Have a 3 year old Rheem water heater that I flushed annually in the Phoenix, Arizona (AZ) ( for the tags folks), area. Shoulda done this at year 2 as you can see the old anode rod is completely gone.Anyway, was contemplating on getting a $25 replacement rod, but stumbled upon this. About 7x the price, but less hassle annually since I wouldn't have to flush the water heater nor replace the rod every 2 years at this rate.Hardest part was the install. I used an impact drill but it wouldn't break the old rod initially. Looking at the specs of my drill, it was 240lb/ft of torque, and others have said a 400lb/ft+ impact drill would have to do it. I kept at it though, and it finally broke free.Used a ratchet/wrench to tighten the Corro Protec and bam, install pretty much done.Just hoping I replaced the old rod in time so this tank will last me 20yrs.I guess if you're planning on moving the next few years, a standard replacement anode rod would do. But those of you with a forever home or forever rate, this is great.